A: Most yards need regular service once a week, some people prefer twice a week in the heaviest times of the year. 

A: Using mulch is one of the best things you can do to help conserve water in your landscape while also improving your soil. Organic mulch (anything that was once a plant) improves your soil as it decomposes. As the mulch decays it releases nutrients for your plants to use. It also brings the pH of the soil closer to neutral while also improving the structure of the soil. Mulch helps to prevent water loss from your soil by providing protection from the sun's heat. By keeping the soil cooler, water does not evaporate as quickly as it would if the soil were allowed to receive direct sunlight. Mulch helps to protect the root zone of plants by insulating the soil from both hot and cold weather - it protects the plant roots from the heat of the sun and it also protects them from cold temperatures. Mulch makes it easier for water to seep into the soil and also lessens the amount of soil that gets washed or blown away during storms. Another great benefit of mulch is that is smothers out weeds. Mulching landscape areas helps plants to grow faster because they do not have to compete with grass or weeds for the water and nutrients they need. It also gives a finished appearance to the landscape.

A:  Yes, we lay down mulch and it is usually available in Red, Brown, Black, Cypress, and Kiddie Cushion.

A:  Usually 4, 5 or even 6 times a year for the best results.

A: Fertilizers are commonly labeled with N-P-K ratios (N=nitrogen, P=phosphorus, K=potassium). Nitrogen makes lawns green, phosphorus promotes good roots, potassium is a disease fighter. Other trace elements are needed for a healthy lawn. Calcium promotes root hair growth, magnesium is a big part of chlorophyll, sulfur helps seeds form, boron improves the yield, copper makes enzymes work harder, manganese stimulates germination, molybdenum makes nitrogen enzymes work harder, and zinc is needed for chlorophyll and growth.

A:  It depends on how big your yard is and how much edging you need, we offer a free estimate though, this includes mow (mulching), edge, weed eat and blow off paved surfaces.

A:  Usually I would say in the winter and spring time, especially if you have weeds.

A:  Yes, we offer services for both commercial and residential accounts.

A:  From 6:00 a.m. to 10:00 a.m. is best, but if that isn't possible, then afternoon waterings are okay. Lawn diseases are more apt to become a problem if you water when sun is absent, so avoid evening waterings. Contrary to the belief of many, daytime watering will not burn the grass in fact, it actually cools it.  But the daytime waterings are wasteful of water, due to much of it evaporating before the grass can absorb it.  But the main thing to remember is to water deeply, as this promotes root growth, shallow watering is great for weeds, but not so great for grass....

A. Mowing is the most misunderstood part of lawn care, and the most incorrectly preformed part of lawn care. Far too many people will set their mowers too low or “scalp” the lawn. This leads to thin and dying out grass, shallow root systems, and in the long run, NO GRASS.

A. Usually it means there are a number of different types of grass growing there. Grasses have different textures and growing habits that make the lawn look patchy and uneven. It may also be a soil problem. Heavy compacted soil restricts healthy root growth. Possibly tree roots, gravel, shade, other hard rocky objects are causing the problem.

A. Mowing before a treatment is always good. If a treatment is applied before your lawn is mowed, we encourage waiting a day. In most cases this is enough time for the material applied to be effective.

A. We suggest waiting 12 hours if we made a liquid application. We want the material to be dry before walking on the lawn. If we made a dry granular application, you don’t need to wait. Unless otherwise specified.

A. Water is needed to activate most materials such as, fertilizer, insect control, and lime. However, immediate watering after a treatment can rinse away the herbicide used to control weeds. We recommend waiting 8-12 hours before watering. ALWAYS refer to any special instructions!

A. Most lawn insects are surface dwellers. They feed in the upper areas of the grass plant. Subsurface insects, such as grubs, feed in the root zone. It takes a special, stronger material to control them.

A. Grubs are the larvae of the common Japanese and June Beetle. They feed on the leaves of plants and lay eggs in sunny areas of the turf. You will see signs of grub activity within a few weeks. You will be able to roll back the turf in areas damaged by grubs. You will notice sunny areas that have turned brown. You may think this is normal stress from hot dry weather and not realize what is happening until the grass dies. We can do the repair work, either by new seed or sod.

A. We will leave a notice on the door.

A. A pre-emergent is applied, it actually forms a barrier on the ground surface, which prevents the crabgrass seed from germinating. Unfortunately crabgrass control does not work like weed control. It is a pre-emergent rather than a post-emergent.

A. A pre-emergent is a control material used to help prevent the germination of weeds and grassy weeds. A post-emergent is used to control the weed after germination. Post-emergence are usually much more effective the pre-emergence, but they can be more expensive.

A. Your gate must remain unlocked for the full day of your regularly scheduled service. If you prefer not to unlock your gate, we recommend that you use combo locks and that you provide us with the password or combination. If we are unable to Complete Service due to circumstances such as: yard too wet, gate locked/stuck, occasionally dog in yard. We are unable to issue any credit. Every effort will be made to complete service. We will not climb over your fence/gate if it is locked/stuck. **Keep in mind you know your yard condition after it rains-if it tends to flood, Please let us know in advance.

A. Yes, you will be given credit.

A. No, you don’t need to be home for us to do an estimate, but in a lot of cases it is important that the job is discussed in detail at some point.